Chhari Dhand Wetland Reserve Part I : Introduction

The Chhari Dhand Wetland Reserve : Winter base for large squadrons of Pelicans

   The Chari-Dhand wetland conservation reserve is located on the edge of arid Banni grasslands and the marshy salt flats of the Rann of Kutch in Kutch district, Gujarat State in India. The shallow wetlands of Banni Grasslands in the heart of Kutch are a dream for birding enthusiasts. Chhari means ‘salty’ and Dhand means ‘shallow wetlands’ in the local language. More than 370 species, including raptors, waders and larks are found in the region and the population goes up during the winters when migratory birds make this a veritable stop.

   Banni is a low lying peninsular tract of land extending into the Rann between the Pachham Bet (Bet = Islands in Rann) and the Kutch mainland. It is probably a bank or bar or bar of soil brought down by the north flowing Kutch rivers, and probably lifted by one of the many earthquakes of Kutch. Infact, the word 'Banni' is said to come from Hindi word 'banai ', meaning made. The Banni stretches almost parallel to the coast line of Kutch, about a hundred km long and from fifteen to twenty five broad. Where it joins the mainland, the Banni is so low that it can hardly be distinguished from the Rann. Further out it rises gently, but, except for one narrow strip in the west, is all apt to be covered in water in times of high flood. The whole is covered with coarse grass, babul trees and many halophile (salt tolerant) vegetation of scrubs and trees. It supports large herds of buffalo and other cattle, reared by the various pastoralist communities of Maldharis. 

   Banni grasslands form a belt of arid grassland ecosystem on the outer southern edge of the desert of the marshy salt flats of Rann of Kutch. Monsoon rains each year form several marshy wetlands which dot the Banni grasslands and the areas adjacent to it, all being seasonal in nature. In the local Kutchhi-Sindhi language there are four terms used for wetlands, they are Kar (smallest), Chhachh (bigger than Kar), Thathh (bigger than Chhach) and Dhand (the biggest of the wetlands). Chari-Dhand is the biggest in size among all of them. The area of each of these seasonal freshwater wetlands during any given year depends upon the amount of rainfall received during that year.

   Winters, especially after a good monsoon in Kutch or floods in Sindh, witness a magical and unimaginable congregation of migratory birds, given how dry, salty and sparsely vegetated Kutch otherwise is. Chief numbers are of the Common Cranes, Sedges of which can be found literally grazing the grasslands; large squadrons of Great White Pelicans and Dalmatian Pelicans; Flamboyance of Flamingos; Eurasian Spoonbills and numerous other water birds.

Sedge of Common Cranes grazing the Banni grasslands

Seasonal Lake of Chhari Dhand

   

The Chhari Dhand Lake

Cormorants and Darters at Chhari Dhand

   The beautiful conical hill seen in the image above is said to be fossil rich.

   The experience of drive to the Chhari Dhand on unpaved paths crowded with the early birds...

Drive to Chari Dhand

   Also exciting is the drive through the grasslands...

Drive through Chari Dhand

   Dhinodhar hill, the only known / documented volcano on Indian subcontinental mainland looms over  the Chhari Dhand on southern horizon

Dhinodhar Volcano on the horizon

   The unbelievably lush grasslands bordering the Chhari Dhand lake

Grasslands of Chhari Dhand, who would say its bordering the Rann

Chhari Dhand Grasslands with Pelicans and Cranes

   One can also see few wild mammals and herds of hundreds of Kharai Camels, a unique breed of camels found only in Kutch.

Kharai Camels of Kutch

   Hope you enjoyed this introductory post, stay tuned for more...

Sunset over untouched dazzling Rann quivering with mirages

Sunset over untouched dazzling Rann quivering with mirages

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR

Focal Length: 240mm (35mm equivalent ~ 360mm)

Exif: f/9, 1/640 sec, ISO 1400

Location: Great Rann of Kutch, Kutch, Gujarat, India

   Well, have seen many a sunsets including some from places pretty celebrated for their sunsets, but I tell you on a clear winter day, sunsets over the white Rann are almost the best in world. If you look at the sun carefully, you would even be able to see a sunspot. Let me know if you spot the sunspot!

   And if you really want to enjoy the sunset in solitude; you will explore a bit and find your place away from the touristy rut of tent city and Dhordo. Seen here is the sun setting over the 'Kalo Dungar' hills of 'Pachham Bet' Island in the middle of Rann. Yes, Rann like any sea has islands called 'Bet' in it, four of them to be precise, namely Chorad, Bela, Khadir and Pachham.

   A word of caution here regarding exploring Rann to find your place, stick to the roads, they are enough, never try taking your vehicle onto the uncharted Rann which is surprisingly deceptive in appearing hard and in fact being all slushy at places. Your vehicle even if 4x4 will soon be resting on its floorboard on the Rann and sinking further.  

     

 

Flamingos mirrored on the shimmering Rann

Flamingos mirrored on the shimmering Rann

ID: Greater Flamingos (in formative plumage)

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR
Focal Length: 500mm (35mm equivalent ~ 750mm)
Exif: f/7.1, 1/4000 sec, ISO 5000(Auto)
Location: Great Rann of Kutch, India

   Did you know that the Rann of Kutch (Great and Little) and the Sambhar Lake are the only breeding sites of Greater Flamingos in India.

   There are no touch-ups or tricks involved in the above pic.

   The Great Rann annually becomes an endless natural mirror stretching from horizon to horizon as the summer water dries up to centimetric depths; it continues drying up fully to reveal the famous white desert of shiny salt crust deposit or 'Safed Rann' for 3-4 months of winter before becoming a sea again as south westerly winds of monsoon cause the rising seas to re-inundate it.

Flamboyance in a flaming sunset

ID : Greater Flamingo

Gear : Nikon D7200 with AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR

Focal Length : 220 mm (~330mm (35mm equivalent))

Exif :   f/7.1, 1/2500 sec, ISO 200 (Manual Mode, ISO Auto)

Location: Great Rann of Kutch, Kutch, Gujarat

   Did you know that the collective noun for a group of flamingos is called a Flamboyance !

Quite an apt term, don't you think so. BTW, the word flamingo itself is derived from 'flame' due to their colour.

   At times things don't go quite as planned, this was among my first few usage of shooting with the heavy Nikkor 200-500mm (compared to the Nikkor DX 55-300mm) , and while I was positioning myself to click close up shots with maximum zoom with the sun behind my back and lighting the birds, a passing road construction vehicle disturbed them causing them to fly, I had to quickly swivel and somehow managed to zoom out the heavy lens (which was hand held) and click them flying into the sun over the shimmering Rann. Well, the results were far better than what I had originally planned.

   This pic was clicked while driving bang through the Great Rann of Kutch during a beautiful flaming sunset in the month of October.