Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj, Kutch

   Kutch (or Kachchh as the officials like to call it) is the largest district of India; larger than 45% of worlds countries like Denmark, Switzerland, Bhutan, Taiwan, Netherlands, Belgium etc. Kutch has got varied geographical features like beaches, coastal swamps, mini mangrove deltas, broken hill ranges and the mystic seasonal salt flats of Rann (many part of which are still physically unsurveyed to date) bordered by marshy wetlands of Banni Grasslands.

   There are many tribes in Kutch, most of whom inhabit the tricky Banni. Perhaps the most reclusive amongst them are the Dhaneta Jats, in fact it wouldn't be wrong to call them fiercely reclusive.

   Bhuj, the district headquarters of Kutch is a fairly small city, but for the tribes of Kutch, Bhuj is the capital of world - a marvel, they can not fathom that there can be anyplace bigger. One can not blame them, they are used to the vast and sparse Banni and Rann, where mobile network is still a rarity, so are schools or hospitals.

   Every Sunday, a flea market is held in the precincts and adjoining area of the historic Bhid Gate of Bhuj. This market mainly caters to these tribal and thus you would get see interesting vintage stuff, especially in the Kabadi Bazaar section; which you would not get to see easily in most parts of the world.

   If you want to the see the Maldharis of Kutch (the various nomadic pastoral tribes of Kutch) especially the Dhaneta Jats, this is your best bet, though be warned they are rather hostile. The colours and uniqueness of the assembled crowd reminds one of organised festivals and staged events held in other parts of world to showcase local culture, but this market is a real organic deal.

   And then by afternoon, they again mysteriously disappear, via unmarked bolero tracks known only to them, into the clumps of spiny shrubs and thorny bushes concealing their camps and rare hamlets.

A Dhaneta Jat Tribal Lady

   The Jats are a Maldhari cattle-herding group. The Dhaneta Jats are a sub-group who are one of India's most reclusive tribes and are often referred to as the 'Hidden Tribe of India'. They are Sunni Muslims and are nomadic cattle herders in the Banni Grassland region adjoining the Great Rann of Kutch. The women are easily recognised by their enormous nose ring called a Nathli. It is so heavy it is held up by strands of black thread tied to the hair. The ring is worn after marriage. They are also known for their distinct embroidery work.

   Every Sunday the Dhanetas flock to the flea market which is held in the area adjoining the Bhid Gate in Bhuj.

A Donkey Cart in Bhuj

   The Kachchhi Donkey are found in Kachchh District of Gujarat. They are docile in temperament and are said to be the only donkeys used for agricultural purpose. They are also utilized for transportation as donkey cart and as pack animal during pastoralist migration, etc.
Reportedly, Donkey carts are not used anywhere else in India as regularly as they are used in Kutch.

Tailor Shop

   Tailor in a street-side shack whose niche customer are the tribal who mysteriously materialize every Sunday.

Threes is a company

   Maldhari Males at Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj.

Lean but Hardy, a Maldhari man at Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj.