Chhari Dhand Wetland Reserve Part I : Introduction

The Chhari Dhand Wetland Reserve : Winter base for large squadrons of Pelicans

   The Chari-Dhand wetland conservation reserve is located on the edge of arid Banni grasslands and the marshy salt flats of the Rann of Kutch in Kutch district, Gujarat State in India. The shallow wetlands of Banni Grasslands in the heart of Kutch are a dream for birding enthusiasts. Chhari means ‘salty’ and Dhand means ‘shallow wetlands’ in the local language. More than 370 species, including raptors, waders and larks are found in the region and the population goes up during the winters when migratory birds make this a veritable stop.

   Banni is a low lying peninsular tract of land extending into the Rann between the Pachham Bet (Bet = Islands in Rann) and the Kutch mainland. It is probably a bank or bar or bar of soil brought down by the north flowing Kutch rivers, and probably lifted by one of the many earthquakes of Kutch. Infact, the word 'Banni' is said to come from Hindi word 'banai ', meaning made. The Banni stretches almost parallel to the coast line of Kutch, about a hundred km long and from fifteen to twenty five broad. Where it joins the mainland, the Banni is so low that it can hardly be distinguished from the Rann. Further out it rises gently, but, except for one narrow strip in the west, is all apt to be covered in water in times of high flood. The whole is covered with coarse grass, babul trees and many halophile (salt tolerant) vegetation of scrubs and trees. It supports large herds of buffalo and other cattle, reared by the various pastoralist communities of Maldharis. 

   Banni grasslands form a belt of arid grassland ecosystem on the outer southern edge of the desert of the marshy salt flats of Rann of Kutch. Monsoon rains each year form several marshy wetlands which dot the Banni grasslands and the areas adjacent to it, all being seasonal in nature. In the local Kutchhi-Sindhi language there are four terms used for wetlands, they are Kar (smallest), Chhachh (bigger than Kar), Thathh (bigger than Chhach) and Dhand (the biggest of the wetlands). Chari-Dhand is the biggest in size among all of them. The area of each of these seasonal freshwater wetlands during any given year depends upon the amount of rainfall received during that year.

   Winters, especially after a good monsoon in Kutch or floods in Sindh, witness a magical and unimaginable congregation of migratory birds, given how dry, salty and sparsely vegetated Kutch otherwise is. Chief numbers are of the Common Cranes, Sedges of which can be found literally grazing the grasslands; large squadrons of Great White Pelicans and Dalmatian Pelicans; Flamboyance of Flamingos; Eurasian Spoonbills and numerous other water birds.

Sedge of Common Cranes grazing the Banni grasslands

Seasonal Lake of Chhari Dhand

   

The Chhari Dhand Lake

Cormorants and Darters at Chhari Dhand

   The beautiful conical hill seen in the image above is said to be fossil rich.

   The experience of drive to the Chhari Dhand on unpaved paths crowded with the early birds...

Drive to Chari Dhand

   Also exciting is the drive through the grasslands...

Drive through Chari Dhand

   Dhinodhar hill, the only known / documented volcano on Indian subcontinental mainland looms over  the Chhari Dhand on southern horizon

Dhinodhar Volcano on the horizon

   The unbelievably lush grasslands bordering the Chhari Dhand lake

Grasslands of Chhari Dhand, who would say its bordering the Rann

Chhari Dhand Grasslands with Pelicans and Cranes

   One can also see few wild mammals and herds of hundreds of Kharai Camels, a unique breed of camels found only in Kutch.

Kharai Camels of Kutch

   Hope you enjoyed this introductory post, stay tuned for more...

Pigeon at Eiffel

Pigeon at Eiffel

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR
Focal Length: cropped from 18mm (35mm equivalent ~ 27mm)
Location: Eiffel Tower, Paris, Francce
Exif: f/3.5, 1/250 sec, ISO 200

   Most of the Pigeons in Paris are believed to be distant descendants of the heroic mail pigeons who were the only means of communication between a besieged Paris and rest of the France for four months from October 1870 to January 1871, during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71. It is said that during this time more than a million messages had been successfully delivered by this airmail, despite being shot at by the Prussian forces and hunted by their falconers, who were drafted in their army as a countermeasure to this creative Parisian mail service. Other European armies noticed this success and soon all of them had a pigeon section. Post war, many of them were auctioned off by the French State.

   

    But be warned, to feed the stray Pigeons in Paris today is illegal and can lead to a fine of upto Euro 450. 

Tristram's Starling Couple - the beautiful bird of Dead Sea

A Tristram's Starlings Couple

   Tristram's Starling is a species of starling native to the Middle East. They are perhaps the most typical bird associated with the Dead Sea and are eyecatchy and easily noticeable cause of the large orange wing panels which are particularly noticeable in flight. Males are glossy-black while females are browner overall. Noticeable from a distance by its unique call that often echos off desert wadi cliffs—a clear whistle “tuwheeuwheet.”

   In this pic they are taking shade from the harsh Dead Sea sun below a beach umbrella.

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR

Focal Length: 66mm (35mm equivalent ~ 99mm)

Location: Dead Sea, Israel

Exif: f/11, 1/320 sec, ISO 1600

 

Sunset over untouched dazzling Rann quivering with mirages

Sunset over untouched dazzling Rann quivering with mirages

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR

Focal Length: 240mm (35mm equivalent ~ 360mm)

Exif: f/9, 1/640 sec, ISO 1400

Location: Great Rann of Kutch, Kutch, Gujarat, India

   Well, have seen many a sunsets including some from places pretty celebrated for their sunsets, but I tell you on a clear winter day, sunsets over the white Rann are almost the best in world. If you look at the sun carefully, you would even be able to see a sunspot. Let me know if you spot the sunspot!

   And if you really want to enjoy the sunset in solitude; you will explore a bit and find your place away from the touristy rut of tent city and Dhordo. Seen here is the sun setting over the 'Kalo Dungar' hills of 'Pachham Bet' Island in the middle of Rann. Yes, Rann like any sea has islands called 'Bet' in it, four of them to be precise, namely Chorad, Bela, Khadir and Pachham.

   A word of caution here regarding exploring Rann to find your place, stick to the roads, they are enough, never try taking your vehicle onto the uncharted Rann which is surprisingly deceptive in appearing hard and in fact being all slushy at places. Your vehicle even if 4x4 will soon be resting on its floorboard on the Rann and sinking further.  

     

 

Flamingos mirrored on the shimmering Rann

Flamingos mirrored on the shimmering Rann

ID: Greater Flamingos (in formative plumage)

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR
Focal Length: 500mm (35mm equivalent ~ 750mm)
Exif: f/7.1, 1/4000 sec, ISO 5000(Auto)
Location: Great Rann of Kutch, India

   Did you know that the Rann of Kutch (Great and Little) and the Sambhar Lake are the only breeding sites of Greater Flamingos in India.

   There are no touch-ups or tricks involved in the above pic.

   The Great Rann annually becomes an endless natural mirror stretching from horizon to horizon as the summer water dries up to centimetric depths; it continues drying up fully to reveal the famous white desert of shiny salt crust deposit or 'Safed Rann' for 3-4 months of winter before becoming a sea again as south westerly winds of monsoon cause the rising seas to re-inundate it.

Fishing Shikara on Dal Lake

Fishing Shikara on Dal Lake

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR

Focal Length: 58mm (35mm equivalent ~ 87mm)
Exif: f/11, 1/125 sec, ISO 200
Location: Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir, India

  Shikaras are a cultural symbol of Kashmir like the gondolas for Venice, and like the gondolas you would mostly see them being used for tourism. But some shikaras are still used for non-tourism related functions like the one being used for fishing in this pic. This pic was clicked in February and therefore you can see some snow on the Zabarwan range immediately next to the Dal too.

   

Old Ladakhi Woman at Thiksey Gustor

Old Ladakhi Woman at Thiksey Gustor

Gear: Nikon D7200 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR

Focal Length: 105mm (35mm equivalent ~ 157.5mm)

Exif: f/9, 1/400 sec, ISO Auto (100), Exposure Bias -0.3

Location: Thiksey Monastery, Ladhak, India

Black and White version : Ships of Desert in a full moon night

Camels on Sand Dunes bathed by light of a full moon  

 

 Request you to go through my previous post for understanding the context of this post better and also if in case you are interested in knowing the details of pic.

   Have altered the original pic to a black and white one; just to showcase what I believe, that it is easier to depict moon light in black and white. Your comments please.

Ships of Desert in a full moon night

 

Ships of Desert in a full moon night

Gear: Nikon D7000 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR

Focal Length: 105mm (35mm equivalent ~157mm) 

Exif: f/5.6, 1/13(handheld), ISO 1600, WB: Manual

Location: Sam Sand Dunes, Sam, The Great Indian Desert (Thar Desert), Rajasthan, India

   (Note: You may have to tilt your device / its display at an optimum angle to see the image clearly and obviously the brightness of display would matter.)

   Nature takes on a totally different look on a clear full moon night. And that is true whether it is a sea beach, a river side, snow covered mountains, the open desert, or even a thick tropical jungle. It is very difficult to describe and even more difficult to capture. I am sure all those who have spent nights in the open would agree with me as it can only be experienced and not explained or captured. Remember the Bollywood movies of 70s and 80s, where night action sequences were shot in day using very dark blue filters, but I feel it resulted in relatively bright highlights and sharp shadows unlike real moonlight which I feel is kind of more diffused with lesser contrasts. The camera still can not match the eye, the modern days digital devices (camera/mobile) left to themselves try to turn the night into day until limited by the exposure triangle of ISO, aperture and shutter speed, unless its night shot of manmade lights (city etc) which they do a good job of capturing.

   I tried my best to capture the mood of a moonlight desert night, though am still not fully satisfied with the result, but I tried my best.  

   

Let it Snow ! Let it Snow ! Let it Snow !

 

No, its not monochrome

Gear : Nikon D7200 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR

Focal Length : 18 mm (~27mm (35mm equivalent))
Exif : f/6.3, 1/250 sec, ISO 800 (Manual Mode)
Location: Srinagar, Kashmir, India

   See the pic in full screen and let me know what all can you spot in the pic ?

   Did you know that the winters in Kashmir are locally classified into three phases, the Chillai Kalan, Chillai Khurd and Chillai Bachha. Chillai Kalan is the most intense phase of forty days of cold, starting from 21 December to January 29 every year. The snow which falls during this phase lasts longer.

   I ventured out during one such snowfall of Chillai Kalan, well, to specifically click snowfall. Took some trial and error, playing around with the shutter speed and exposure compensation to get the effect I wanted (thanks to digital cameras nowadays wherein one can immediately see how the pic has come out compared to the film cameras on which I started). Too slow a shutter speed, the snow flakes would appear as streaks, too fast and they would appear as flecks. Exposure compensation was required as the auto exposure / exposure meter of cameras go wonky in conditions of snow, sand, sea etc. But even then, had to keep doing minor adjustments depending on size of snowflakes and their rate of fall.

   By the time, I clicked this particular pic, I had been out walking in the snowfall for about 45 mins, the fingers were freezing, gloves wet, had lost a glove from the pair, had lost my lens cap in the snow, the touchscreen of mobile had stopped responding (probably due to the cold) but the good part was that had got some wonderful pics which were worth the effort!

Flamboyance in a flaming sunset

ID : Greater Flamingo

Gear : Nikon D7200 with AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR

Focal Length : 220 mm (~330mm (35mm equivalent))

Exif :   f/7.1, 1/2500 sec, ISO 200 (Manual Mode, ISO Auto)

Location: Great Rann of Kutch, Kutch, Gujarat

   Did you know that the collective noun for a group of flamingos is called a Flamboyance !

Quite an apt term, don't you think so. BTW, the word flamingo itself is derived from 'flame' due to their colour.

   At times things don't go quite as planned, this was among my first few usage of shooting with the heavy Nikkor 200-500mm (compared to the Nikkor DX 55-300mm) , and while I was positioning myself to click close up shots with maximum zoom with the sun behind my back and lighting the birds, a passing road construction vehicle disturbed them causing them to fly, I had to quickly swivel and somehow managed to zoom out the heavy lens (which was hand held) and click them flying into the sun over the shimmering Rann. Well, the results were far better than what I had originally planned.

   This pic was clicked while driving bang through the Great Rann of Kutch during a beautiful flaming sunset in the month of October.

Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj (Part III)

    If you have stumbled upon this post directly, request you to got through the intro post here, and the second post here

   The gentleman is adorning interesting necklaces.

   Shopkeeper

   He definitely is a regular worshipper. Comment you views... 

   Mechanical Beast of Burden

Knife Sharpener's Shop

   Have generally seen the Knife Sharpeners roaming the streets on their bicycles shouting their typical sales cry of  'Chakku Chhuri tej kara lo' (get knives sharpened). A decent sized shop dedicated only for knife (and other implements) sharpening and nothing else is a rarity. Says a lot about the amount of work he must be getting. In fact, one can scissors (disassembled), a big cleaver and various other knives and sharp implements in the pic. 

A Maldhari woman gloriously decked up

   The show stopper, I do not really know if she is one of the Jats, a Rabari or a Meghwal. Those in the know can tell just by looking at the embroidery of her dress, as each tribe has a different specific pattern and method, leave alone her jewellery like the neck piece or the nose ring which would be a bigger giveaway. Please comment to do let me know which tribe she belongs to ?

   

Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj (Part II)

   For those who have directly stumbled onto this post, please go through the previous part to get a background of this series of photographs. 

Window Shopping

   A man utilizes a wire cutter to clip his nails while he rummages through odd stuff on fare at a scrap stall (Kabadiwala). Notice the oddity of stuff available, I really wonder as to who will buy the torn speakers, broken blowers and broken clutch plates and of what use the buyer will put it to. Also notice the vibrant and uncommon colours of the Salwar Kurta of these men, will put any UCB (United Colors of Benetton) catalogue to shame.

Opportunity Cost or Policy Failure

   These Saffron Cycles were doled out by the government to poor people to facilitate their travel. Well, no one really wants to paddle kilometres through the unforgiving terrain of northern Kutch in its harsh weather, but why turn down a freebie! So most of these find their way into the Kabadi Bazaar on offer to the city dwellers of Bhuj. Well, this particular specimen looked to be loved by its owner going by the fine decorative accessories adorning it. It was available for a mere 1000 bucks (INR), and am sure on bargaining and display of buyer intent, the price would have come down significantly.

Three Again

   Its the males who take turns to roam the Banni Grasslands with their family cattle. While away from their hamlets, they are often in poor mobile network zone. Also notice the funky pastel colours of their Salwar Kurta.

Fashion hath no boundaries

   A tall young Jat looking dapper. Notice his kohl lined eyes, the lime coloured Salwar Kurta, with black piping on placket and pocket, the heart and the epaulettes. Do not miss out the pastel shades of garments being worn by people in the background too.

   The men in the Banni and Rann dye their hair and beards with henna and he sure has an awesome beard.

Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj, Kutch

   Kutch (or Kachchh as the officials like to call it) is the largest district of India; larger than 45% of worlds countries like Denmark, Switzerland, Bhutan, Taiwan, Netherlands, Belgium etc. Kutch has got varied geographical features like beaches, coastal swamps, mini mangrove deltas, broken hill ranges and the mystic seasonal salt flats of Rann (many part of which are still physically unsurveyed to date) bordered by marshy wetlands of Banni Grasslands.

   There are many tribes in Kutch, most of whom inhabit the tricky Banni. Perhaps the most reclusive amongst them are the Dhaneta Jats, in fact it wouldn't be wrong to call them fiercely reclusive.

   Bhuj, the district headquarters of Kutch is a fairly small city, but for the tribes of Kutch, Bhuj is the capital of world - a marvel, they can not fathom that there can be anyplace bigger. One can not blame them, they are used to the vast and sparse Banni and Rann, where mobile network is still a rarity, so are schools or hospitals.

   Every Sunday, a flea market is held in the precincts and adjoining area of the historic Bhid Gate of Bhuj. This market mainly caters to these tribal and thus you would get see interesting vintage stuff, especially in the Kabadi Bazaar section; which you would not get to see easily in most parts of the world.

   If you want to the see the Maldharis of Kutch (the various nomadic pastoral tribes of Kutch) especially the Dhaneta Jats, this is your best bet, though be warned they are rather hostile. The colours and uniqueness of the assembled crowd reminds one of organised festivals and staged events held in other parts of world to showcase local culture, but this market is a real organic deal.

   And then by afternoon, they again mysteriously disappear, via unmarked bolero tracks known only to them, into the clumps of spiny shrubs and thorny bushes concealing their camps and rare hamlets.

A Dhaneta Jat Tribal Lady

   The Jats are a Maldhari cattle-herding group. The Dhaneta Jats are a sub-group who are one of India's most reclusive tribes and are often referred to as the 'Hidden Tribe of India'. They are Sunni Muslims and are nomadic cattle herders in the Banni Grassland region adjoining the Great Rann of Kutch. The women are easily recognised by their enormous nose ring called a Nathli. It is so heavy it is held up by strands of black thread tied to the hair. The ring is worn after marriage. They are also known for their distinct embroidery work.

   Every Sunday the Dhanetas flock to the flea market which is held in the area adjoining the Bhid Gate in Bhuj.

A Donkey Cart in Bhuj

   The Kachchhi Donkey are found in Kachchh District of Gujarat. They are docile in temperament and are said to be the only donkeys used for agricultural purpose. They are also utilized for transportation as donkey cart and as pack animal during pastoralist migration, etc.
Reportedly, Donkey carts are not used anywhere else in India as regularly as they are used in Kutch.

Tailor Shop

   Tailor in a street-side shack whose niche customer are the tribal who mysteriously materialize every Sunday.

Threes is a company

   Maldhari Males at Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj.

Lean but Hardy, a Maldhari man at Sunday Flea Market, Bhid Gate, Bhuj.